If there’s one place that truly captures the spirit of old Tbilisi, it’s the sulfur baths of Abanotubani. Brick domes, the soft scent of sulfur in the air, the sound of water behind thick stone walls — everything here speaks of centuries of history. But this isn’t a museum — the baths are still alive, still visited by locals, and still part of everyday Georgian life.
A Brief History
The tradition of bathhouses in Tbilisi goes back many centuries. The first written mention dates to the 5th century, but it’s likely the thermal waters were used even earlier. Built directly over underground hot springs, these bathhouses feature domed ceilings designed to trap warmth and humidity.
Travelers from many eras — from Arab merchants to European explorers — wrote about the Tbilisi baths. In the 19th century, the Russian poet Alexander Pushkin visited and famously wrote that he had «never seen anything more luxurious.» And he wasn’t exaggerating.
What Makes Tbilisi Baths Special
Natural Sulfur
What sets these baths apart is the natural sulfur-rich water. Temperatures range from 37°C to 43°C (98°F to 109°F). The water is known for its therapeutic properties: it boosts circulation, relaxes muscles, clears the skin, and — many believe — has rejuvenating effects.
Atmosphere and Architecture
Most baths are located in historic buildings with low brick domes. Interiors vary from classic oriental design to modern minimalist. The common elements: dim lighting, thick stone walls, quiet spaces, and soothing heat — all perfect for deep relaxation.
Which Baths Are Better?
People often ask: which sulfur baths in Tbilisi are better? The answer depends on what you’re looking for — budget, aesthetics, or privacy. Here's a quick guide:
- Bathhouse No. 5 (Orbeliani) — one of the most popular options. Offers both public halls and private rooms. Traditional interiors, consistent service.
- Gulo’s Thermal Spa — private, well-kept, and known for friendly staff. Popular with tourists, best to book in advance.
- Royal Bath — a more upscale experience, modern design, and premium services including massage and tea ceremonies.
- Chreli Abano — the most photogenic bathhouse, known for its Persian-style blue-tiled façade and Instagram-friendly charm.
Prices at Tbilisi’s Sulfur Baths
Prices vary depending on the type of room and services. Here's a general range:
- Public halls — from 5 to 10 GEL per person;
- Private rooms — from 70 to 150 GEL per hour (depending on size and service);
- Extras like massage or body scrub — from 20 to 50 GEL.
Most bathhouses are open until late. Some operate 24/7. Booking ahead is recommended, especially on weekends.
Why Visit the Baths — Not Just for Tourists
Baths are not just a photo-op or checkbox on a tourist’s list. For locals, it’s a real part of daily life. People come after work to unwind, recover, and socialize. Many say the best conversations in Tbilisi happen not in cafés — but in the baths, where the mind clears and time slows down.
After the Bath — Explore Abanotubani
Once you’ve soaked and relaxed, take time to explore the Abanotubani district. Narrow streets, small cafés, views of the Narikala Fortress, and the Legvtakhevi waterfall — all just steps away. Sit with a cup of tea at the bathhouse entrance and watch Tbilisi go by.
Tbilisi’s sulfur baths are more than steam and stone. They are a living tradition. A connection to history that hasn’t faded — it thrives. They are the warm, quiet heart of the city. Want to understand Tbilisi? Start with a visit to the baths — and let the city speak through water and warmth.